The Northeast (Playa Blanca, Playa Los Cocos, Playa Tortuga)
This is the wildest and most secluded part of Cayo Largo. Remember that Cayo Largo is a long narrow island. About in the middle is where you'll find the all-inclusive resorts, to the southwest are the stunning off-resort beaches of Playa Sirena, Playa Paraiso and Playa Mal Tiempo, to the northwest you'll find the airport, the pueblo (village) and the marina. The rest of the island (north and northeast) is undeveloped. Note that venturing into these deserted areas is not without any risk (see warnings below).
How to reach the northeast of Cayo Largo:
There's no taxi service to these areas. You have to rent a vehicle (preferably and ATV) and ride toward east on the road behind the hotels up to the last one, the Grand Memories Cayo Largo (former Hotel Playa Blanca / Barcelo), from there continue straight to the east, the road becomes a sandy path. You arrive next at the big tower antenna. From there you can still drive for about 2-3 kilometers before reaching a landfill; this is where you must continue on foot. There's a big sign "STOP - NO Jeep-Buggy-Scooter - FINE 100 USD". It is forbidden to drive any kind of vehicle beyond this point. It's very easy to slip or get stuck on this remote soft-sand trail, and very difficult to get help! Plus, this is an environmentally sensitive and protected area!
Leave your vehicle near the landfill and start hiking the trail; in certain points the island is very narrow (less than 1 km wide), you can see both coasts. The south side consists of white sand beaches alternating with a rocky shore (depending on the tide and strength of the waves); while the north coast is mainly dominated by salt marshes and mangroves. This trail in the middle of the island extends to the northeastern tip of Cayo Largo. But for areas where the beach is wide enough, you can walk along the shore (instead of the inland trail); it's easier and less hot to walk by beach, with the breeze and more compact sand.
From the landfill (or the "no vehicles beyond this point" sign) to the northeastern tip of the island, it's about 12-13 km (9-10 hours return). How far should one go? It's up to you! (see warnings below).
What is there to see?
Venturing in these areas is more about living an experience "à la Robinson Crusoe". You will feel like being alone in the world! You can walk for hours without seeing a soul. There are many other beaches in Cayo Largo that are more accessible and beautiful; it's worth going to the east only if you're looking for total seclusion or simply feel the need to explore the island further.
The first stretch of the eastern beaches is called Playa Blanca, the next one Playa Los Cocos, and the last one Playa Tortuga -- Beaches as far as the eye can see! Playa Blanca is often a series of tiny coves, while Playa Los Cocos and Playa Tortuga are usually wider. Along the way you'll see beautiful limestone cliffs, pine forests, palm groves, cactuses, and wildlife (mostly lizards, iguanas, and birds). Another thing you'll “feel” for sure are the annoying hitchhikers, these spiky burrs will stick to your feet, your clothes, your pareo, your shoes... even if you try to stay away from them! The Cubans called them "guisasos".
In a pine forest near Playa Los Cocos, we found an old abandoned house (???) with a huge termite nest inside. This little forest seemed at first sight an ideal place for a break from the sun, but if you venture there without insect repellent, be prepare to run! There are tons of bloodthirsty mosquitoes that find this rare human skin very attractive!
Sea turtles:
Each year, from May to September, hundreds of sea turtles come to Cayo Largo's beaches to lay their eggs; the northeastern beaches are no exception. The turtle hatchery staff come to collect hundreds of eggs from the most vulnerable parts of these beaches, preventing them from breaking or being washed away if the turtle nests were flooded by the waves. You might run into them. To learn more, visit our page dedicated to the Centro de Rescate de Tortugas Marinas (Sea Turtle Rescue Center).
Warnings and suggestions:
- Always keep in mind that this sector is a bit of a wilderness, far from any service. Let friends or the hotel know your plan; you are isolated out there should anything happen.
- Bring lots of water and sunscreen, wear a hat, bring heat proof clothes (and/or a pareo).
- If you plan to go far, pack a lunch, and hide water bottles on the way to use on return
- The terrain is uneven, especially near the shore where you may have to step on rocks to reach the next sandy area, depending on beach conditions and tide. It is best to bring shoes or good walking sandals (avoid flip-flops).
- On these deserted beaches, there are all sorts of debris washed up on the sand (including pieces of glass and metal), be careful if you walk barefoot.
Lily & Normand
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